Rising Native Talent Breathing New Life into the Island's Dining Culture

With its striking, rugged mountain vista, curving roads and unpredictable weather, the Isle of Skye has always drawn nature enthusiasts. In recent years, however, the most expansive island in the Inner Hebrides has been attracting visitors for different motivations – its dynamic food and drink scene. Leading the way are emerging Sgitheanach (local residents) with a global outlook but a commitment to homegrown, sustainable ingredients. Additionally, it stems from an engaged community eager to create rewarding, year-round jobs that encourage young people on the island.

A Passion for Local Produce

Calum Montgomery is Skye born and bred, and he’s passionate about showcasing the island’s produce on his menus. “For those traveling to the island I want them to value the landscape, but also the excellence of our offerings,” he says. “The local seafood including mussels, lobster, scallops and crab are the best available.” He reflects on history: “It is profoundly important to me to use the identical produce as my forebears. My grandfather was a lobster fisherman and we’re savoring shellfish from the exact same sea lochs, with the same respect for ingredients.”

His A Taste of Skye menu displays the travel distance his ingredients has travelled. Patrons can feast on plump scallops dived by hand in Loch Greshornish (zero miles), and creel-caught lobster from the island's capital (12 miles) with greens, wild herbs and culinary blooms from the restaurant's plot and coastline (hyper-local). This link to ingredients and suppliers is key. “Last week I took a young chef out with a scallop diver so he could appreciate what they do. We prepared scallops straight from the water and enjoyed them freshly shucked with a hint of lemon juice. ‘I've never tasted a better scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. This is exactly what we want to deliver to the restaurant.”

Culinary Ambassadors

Journeying south, in the majesty of the towering Cuillin mountains, a further culinary ambassador for Skye, Clare Coghill, manages a well-loved café. Recently the chef represented Scotland at a prestigious international gastronomic gathering, serving shellfish buns with Scotch-flavored spread, and innovative local dishes. She first started her café in a different city. Coming back to Skye during the pandemic, a short-term residencies demonstrated there was a audience here too.

During a meal featuring a signature creation and exquisite citrus-marinated fish, the chef notes: “I’m really proud that I opened elsewhere, but I couldn’t do what I can do here. Getting quality produce was a significant effort, but here the seafood come right from the ocean to my restaurant. My shellfish supplier only speaks to me in the traditional tongue.” Her passion for Skye’s produce, community and environment is evident across her bright, innovative dishes, all filled with regional tastes, with a hint of local culture. “The link to local traditions and language is incredibly significant,” she says. Guests can use little lesson cards on the tables to pick up a basic terms while they eat.

Several locals had jobs off the island. We witnessed the ingredients arrive miles from where it was landed, and it’s simply inferior

Innovation and Tradition

Skye’s more longstanding food destinations are constantly innovating. A boutique hotel managed by a heritage keeper in her traditional property has traditionally been a culinary hotspot. The proprietor's parent writes celebrated books on Scottish cookery.

The chefs continues to innovate, with a vibrant emerging talent led by an skilled culinary director. When they’re taking a break from cooking the chefs grow culinary plants in the hotel greenhouse, and forage for native plants in the landscaped areas and ocean-foraged botanicals like coastal greens and beach plants from the shoreline of a local sea inlet. In the fall they follow animal paths to find wild mushrooms in the forest.

Patrons can feast on island-harvested shellfish, leafy vegetables and legumes in a delicious broth; Shetland cod with local asparagus, and restaurant-cured shellfish. The hotel’s activity leader leads tours for excursions including ingredient hunting and catch-and-release trips. “There’s a huge appetite for experiences from our visitors,” says the manager. “Guests are eager to come and truly understand the island and the landscape.”

Supporting the Community

The distilling sector is also contributing to retain local youth on Skye, in careers that extend past the busy season. An operations manager at a regional spirits maker shares: “Seafood farming was a significant local employer in the past, but now the majority of positions are handled by machines. Property costs have gone up so much it’s more difficult for the youth to live here. The spirits sector has become a vitally significant employer.”

“Distillers wanted, no experience necessary” was the notice that a young local woman noticed in her local paper, landing her a job at the spirits facility. “I just took a punt,” she says, “I didn't expect I’d get a distillery position, but it was a dream of mine.” She had an fascination with whisky, but no formal training. “The chance to learn on the job and study digitally was amazing.” Today she is a senior distiller, assisting in teaching new distillers, and has recently created her personal blend using a specialty malt, which is aging in casks when observed. In larger producers, that’s an recognition usually given to seasoned veterans. The tour facility and bistro employ many people from around the nearby region. “We integrate with the community because we attracted the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital

Angela Ryan
Angela Ryan

IT strategist with over 15 years of experience in network architecture and digital transformation for enterprises.